Sunday, March 22, 2009

Car Repair Cont'd.


So awhile back I took Miranda's car into the shop to get it aligned and have the wheels rotated/balanced. She had been complaining that it was shaking pretty good making turns at high speed. So I took it in, and had them look it over. They found a bad ball joint on the right front and the back left tire spindle bearing was loose. So they replaced them, aligned it and rotated/balanced the tires. After the took care of that they brought to my attention that the car needed motor mounts replaced. They said they would recommend them being replaced soon, due to the fact that they were pretty much shot. So, a week or two later I made an appointment to have them replaced by "our" mechanic. He's usually more affordable, and does good dependable work. The alignment, rotations, bearing and ball joint cost about $350+ to put on. He gave me an estimate of around $280, which is a heck of a lot cheaper than it would of cost the actual "shop" to put them on. I think they said about $350 ish. So , a day or two before we took the car in, Miranda calls me one morning on her way to work. She says, that they car like "stalled" going up an on ramp. Come to find out, the engine hesitated and wouldn't accelerate up the ramp, but finally "caught" and took off. I knew it wasn't the transmission because the engine wasn't revving, and the "catch" wasn't a violent jerk. It was almost like it didn't know what to do. Like a sensor was out, or going bad. I talk to a couple guys at work, that are pretty knowledgeable about cars, and they said its probably some sensor on the throttle body, either a TPS (Throttle position sensor) or something along that lines. So I had our mechanic take a look at it. He said the TPS tested fine, but the idle on the car was really erratic. So he check out the IAC (idle air controller) because apparently there was a tech bulletin if you have these list of problems * cold start, sluggish accel, etc* that it needed to be replaced. So he replaces it. Fixed it, runs like charm now. So the grand total after he replaced the motor mounts and the IAC was $380, which is more than the "shop" but he did more work, So I figure that the shop would of probably charged us more if we had them put on the sensor. So I think we made out ahead.
So, anyway, after all that ta-do, I thought now would be a good time to change her car over to a synthetic /synthetic-blend. Just to the fact, its had a lot of miles put on it, and probably wasn't taken car of the best. Probably had crappy oil put in it, and cobbled together to keep running.
So I decided to put in Valvoline Max-life 10w-30 , its for vehicles over 75000 miles. Its supposed to condition seals, and help prevent deposits and all that stuff. So I figured it wouldn't hurt. Plus if it worked and fixed the leak she's had the whole time she's had the car, then I would switch her up to a full synthetic,like Mobil 1.
So we'll see how it goes. I've changed the oil and oil filter, and cleaned up the engine from all of the old oil that spilled over it over that past however many years of neglect. So I figure I will check it about 500+ miles into the new oil and see how its working, leaking or not. She usually have to put in a quart ever 3000 miles. So we'll see how it works.
I will keep you updated when I see what happens.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Car Repair



So, I decide that I would replace Miranda's fuel filter on her 1993 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5 liter, 100hp beauty.
Probably being that I doubt it had been changed since the car was new, or at the recommended time period of the owners manual.




So , I purchased the necessary gear ,ie; fuel filter, quick disconnect tool.
Assembled my gear, aka, tools.So, put the car up on ramps, e-braked and blocked the tires.
According the Chilton repair manual on the car, you are suppose to release the pressure in the fuel lines. To do that, you have to unplug the injector harness and set up a pair of jumper wires.
One to a ground and the other to a positive terminal of the battery.I'm assuming it runs the pump backwards to release the pressure??
After doing that with some speaker wire I found that did the job nicely, I crawled under the car to see what laid ahead for me.
I found the old filter to be a bit rusty.
The rust slightly worried me. Just from past experiences with this car, the rust on it can be the biggest pain. I have broke a many a bolts/screw heads on this car. But luckily I didn't have much trouble removing the quick disconnect nor the hose clamp from the other. The rest of the replacement was a snap. I got the new one installed no problem.
The new filter was a Wix, which looks identical to the old one, minus the rust
After I got all my gear packed up and everything back to normal (car off ramps, cleaned up) I took the car for a test run. Upon returning I crawled back under and checked for leaks. I was very pleased to find none! Praise the Chrysler gods something worked out.
After I completed my task, I decided that I wanted to see how dirty the old filter was. So with a little bit of patience and a hacksaw/tin snips, I opened it up and found it to be decently dirty.All and all I am very pleased with the result. Hopefully it will help with her fuel economy, and prolonged the life of the car. We are hopefully going to keep this thing running as long as possible, so we can save enough to get a nice new car. Probably Honda or Toyota, depending on what she likes.
Oh, I almost forgot to mention. The motor mounts have to be replaced on this car. I am not going to try to tackle that one. Probably run it to the shop and have our mechanic take care of it.

-later